Another weekend and this time it was a CMC trip to Newtonmore, though I'd only realised it was Newtonmore late on so had to revise my intentions to those more towards the East.
The forecast looked perfect, it had been cold all week the only downside was lack of recent thaw so some dodgy layers still existed in the snowpack, mainly affecting Eastern aspects. Avalanche forecast was considerable. Only a handful of plucky CMCers were venturing North. I was to team up with the most excellent Chris Coapes.
Neither of us had any strong plans but the forecast encouraged Western aspects which pointed us towards Lurchers crag or Mess of Pottage (Fellow CMC members Chris and Dave naturally headed to the East facing Hells Lum.)
A 6am alarm call soon saw us heading into the honey pot of Coire an t'Sneachda. The morning was chilly and clear with the snow level just below the car park. We somehow took a brief detour from the trench into Sneachda only noticing by looking up and seeing the throngs above us. We soon regained the path only slightly delayed by our lapse in concentration.
The North facing Aladins buttress was strangely quiet. Mess of Pottage didn't seem too busy and as I hadn't climbed there it was a call I was happy with. Hidden Chimney at II/III was the obvious warm up but practically everyone on the buttress was heading up it. There were teams just starting up Hidden Chimney Direct and The Haston Line. Other options around were a bit too hard for a warm so we settled into the queue for The Haston Line. First pitch contained the crux so I pointed Chris at it.
The route has a memorable little squeeze past a miniature gendarme before you reach the crux.
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| Team ahead on The Haston Line |
The crux consists of a steep little corner unfortunately rather devoid of useful snow, ice or turf. It did sport some useful looking tat for protection. Once established in the corner I really struggled to find something useful to bash my picks into. I had a rather wobbly sideways torque for my right tool and my left hand shamefully aiding on the tat though this was not much use. My first attempt to gain height resulted in a slither back down as the torque slipped.
Second attempt I yarded on the torque more and managed to get a crampon point in a ice smear gaining enough height to find something useful for my left tool. Plenty of huffing and puffing and scrabbling and use of right knee eventually got me rocking over onto the ledge. By some distance the hardest moves I've done on a winter route. A few more steps and the dreaded hot aches returned, necessitating a 5 minute breather for me to recover my senses. During which I further ruminated on my motivations for winter climbing, I have been for a while getting less attracted to the harder (for me) lines and just wanting to have easy light mountaineering days. Once recovered I continued up the easy ground to Chris and the belay. A splendid lead by Chris.
I finished up easy ground to the plateau. We still had plenty of time until the rugby for another route. We headed and back down and found the excellent looking Hidden Chimney direct free.
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| Randoms on Hidden Chimney direct |
Chris graciously offered me the lead, I was slightly tempted but sent him on up. A steady lead followed and I was soon dismantling the belay for once sure I was on belay and headed up. The pitch was continuously interesting. Much more sustained than the Haston Line with reasonable protection. Was a tricky crux escaping right from a little niche. Was much relieved when managed to sink both axes behind a flake and establish my crampons onto the slab. Presumably the pitch would of been easier in more turfier days or with greater ice build up.
The quality of the pitch was such to almost change my mind about the harder winter climbing. I took the lead on what I think was hidden chimney but wasn't very chimney like but did have a couple of steps with some interest.
Lovely views were to be had on the plateau
We had now had enough and rushed down to watch the rugby. On the way my sig bottle parted company from rucksack and shot down the hill, it missed hitting Chris or anyone else but was not to be seen again. A lovely day but a day in the Northern Corries doesn't quite feel a proper mountain day out.
For Sunday the vague plan was heading to Hells Lum to do the route Dave and Chris did. The alarm went off at 6, I heard no one else stirring and failed to find the motivation to stir myself. Chris went through a very similar thought process.
We once again headed into the Northern Corries, with the later start and not wanting to get back too late we climbed again in Sneachda. With no teams in the excellent Red Gully it proved an easy choice. A fun route in good condition but at times you had to search for the decent snow ice as some had been battered away by the hordes.
After the route we had a little wander over for a peer into the Loch Avon basin before heading down and hitting the long road home.
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| Chris descending the goat track |
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