Bimbling in N Wales

At least once a year my good buddies Paul,  Rich and I attempt to climb together followed by curry and beer which is a clearly a winning combination. We often struggle to actually climb together and this year is no exception but we do normally manage the curry and beer.
The weather was looking good at our first choice venue of N Wales, Big Rich was keen for the overly popular Idwal slabs for the Sat, I wasn't so he tried to source another partner and went a bit quiet on the interweb chat, Paul was up for anything as has done little in N Wales.
The traffic was sticky but ok on the Friday and gave me time for 3 little solos at the premier beginners venue of Tryfan Fach(little Tryfan) to get the journey out of my system. I was most aggrieved when I found a mini bus taking up my favourite spot in the Nant Peris campsite, some people have no manners! Paul soon joined me in the campsite having had to replace one of his tyres on the way.
We retreated from the midges into the confines of the Vaynol Arms to come up with a plan of action. We decided to go for the easy mountain classic of Outside Edge route on Cym Silm which has been on my to do list for a while and numerous people I know have ticked it off this year so was feeling left out. We sent Big Rich a message to see what the hell he was up to.

It was claggy in the morning which wasn't unexpected and Big Rich had bailed on the climbing (which also wasn't unexpected) citing tiredness and need to buy a tent for his upcoming Dolomites pizza eating expedition. We stuck with out plan and found the end of the correct road with no hassle. The clouds were still low as we set off down the track for an expected 1 hour walk in.

The easy track turned into an average path when we reached the little lakes, as the path steepens upwards into the mist we rather randomly strike off the path heading to a col through rocky and boggy hole ridden terrain in search of some rock.

Where the fuck is the crag!

After 30 mins or so hard slog some common sense prevails and we refer to maps and guidebooks to work out we should of just stayed on the path. Which is obvious if you think about it but at the time we didn't. I did find an empty bottle by the lake and removed it from the pristine landscape earning us some karma from our stupidity.
Our return to the path was quicker as we stuck to the lake shore but wet feet resulted as we expertly found some streams to sink in. A team of 4 was heading up the path when we reached it and I raced up the scree slope to put the beach towels down on the bottom of the route.
The other teams were more relaxed than me about getting on the route and I was soon setting off on the first pitch whilst Paul was getting his breath back. The first pitch wasn't overly interesting much in contrast to the superlative second.

1st Pitch

The 2nd pitch traverses to the left on an inviting ledges with just enough gear to calm the nerves. The slope at the bottom of the crag means the exposure is far greater than would be expected for a second pitch.

2nd Pitch

Paul made it up to the sunset ledge which is further than the route description but a very logical thing to do. I had a 5 metres leftwards walk, there was no obvious belay which I would expect on such terrain. An adequate thread round a wobbly chockstone sufficed and I led on as I still had all the gear and was pointless to swap around. I had more leftwards traversing to do but this time on rock before finding an easy groove upwards to another large ledge and a belay below the crux pitch.

Sunset Ledge

We were briefly distracted by the distant sight of 2 naked looking bodies swimming in the lake far below which were later surmised were the 2 ladies who started up the diff to the right of our route, so we technically we saw ladies skinny dipping!
Paul calmly dispatched the crux pitch which was a bit run out to start and steep to finish. I soon followed and took on the last pitch. The last pitch is scrambly with an indistinct line, I went up a slightly interesting looking groove feature and soon regretted it as the protruding block in the middle of the groove was very loose. Both me and Paul managed to negotiate around without using the block. Would of been better to avoid this section altogether.
We leisurely ate our lunch and packed the kit away enjoying the views and the sunshine. We contacted Rich to see if he fancied some early evening climbing but he had left his climbing kit at home and was in the pub.

People just starting crux pitch

Our walk off was pleasant and gave us fine views of the crag as we descended the last of the Nantile Ridge. Our enthusiasm for further climbing diminished  as our indirect walk in caught up to us and chilling in the sun with Rich appealed. We stopped off in Llanberis for a quick gear shop. V12 had no more of my desired climbing shoes but a new cam was attained and I somehow resisted the temptation of the new SMC guide to the Southern Highland Outcrops.
An hours rehydration back at the campsite was followed by a cracking curry. Stuffed to the gills a derisory amount of beer was drunk in Vaynol after as bodies were full and tired.

Big Rich left early Sunday morning for a charity thing. Me and Paul managed the first excellent pitch of Direct route on Milestone buttress before the reemergence of an old war wound encouraged retreat.

Best crag swag ever!

I had time for a little explore of the boulders below the crag (mostly too highball for me) before the rain began and home I went.