Friday 28 February 2020

Islay first Impressions

For the geographically ignorant Islay is a small island off the West Coast of Scotland. Known as the Queen of the Hebrides it is the Southern most of the Inner Hebrides and is a mere 2 hour ferry from the mainland. Islay is famous for its peaty whiskies, beaches and countless thousands of winter time immigrant geese.
My wife to be and I joined the other 3000 or so human inhabitants at the start of 2020 along with our 3 cats (Loki, Heidi and Esme) and Myrtle our tiny dog. Our journey to the Island was on New Years Eve was smooth unlike the weekend before when our overloaded removals truck almost didn't make it on the ferry. The ferry folk helped us out and we able to dump some belongings onto a trolley for us to drag onto and off the ferry. 3rd time lucky on the weigh in and we were on the ferry. Not without some unwanted stress.
New years eve was the clearest day we have had so far and its a shame we only had an hour of daylight to enjoy it.  Our first walk left Myrtle with little doubt that the move was a good idea as she loves a beach.



With a 5am start to get the ferry from the North East we did somehow manage to see in hogmanay in the small pub next door which was quite busy with locals and tourists. We were invited to the beach bonfire party but this was too much for exhausted bodies and minds. Next year.
Not content with moving to an island our little village of Portnahaven is at the literal end of the pot holed single track road on the Western tip of the island known as the Rhinns. On a clear day we can see Northern Ireland (Have seen it once so far!). Not that we are complaining, its beautiful. The few folk that live year round have been very friendly, most of the houses are empty during the winter. Islay suffers the same housing problems other tourist honeypots across the country. We count our selves lucky to have found somewhere to live.
The first week was mostly spent unpacking, local dog walks and warming the house up. All the central heating comes from the massive stove in the living room so took a while to get the water up to temperature. The cats settled very quickly and love their feeding station with a view.


Portnahaven and its neighbouring village Port Wemyss may be collectively tiny but they are not devoid of facilities, as well as the aforementioned pub there is small shop selling essentials such as peat, frisbees and Irn Bru. On the first Monday my betrothed went to work I was pleasantly surprised by a mobile library popping up outside the house. It has proved useful in getting know some of my neighbours. And is good for books.

The bank van also visits on mondays with the fruit and veg van on Wednesdays. The fish van doesn't make it as far as Portnahaven.
We also have our own lighthouse on the isle of Orsay and resident seal and deer populations.


We have definitely lived in worse places. We perhaps haven't frequented our local as much as we should but so far amongst the highlights we have had peanuts and an offer of place to stay off a Singaporean business man, its been just us and trio of french men, a local's birthday where every time we tried to leave to our bed another round would appear on our table and a fantastic pub quiz in which we didn't embarrass ourselves.
Only once so far has someone walked into our house thinking it was the pub. It was a dark and stormy night so mistake understandable. We have a pub sign on the side of house but the entrance is the next door along. Our house and the pub used to be as one.
One of most entertaining nights out was a murder mystery night at the the closest thing Islay has to a stately home. Having not done such a thing before we tentatively entered the building. Not being natural minglers we hugged the sides reading the notes we were given and tried to identify the actors from the guests.
Once sat down at our designated table we were more relaxed and as ever once the ileach realise we are incomers not tourists the friendly inquisition begins. The food was good, the whisky flowed and the whole event was marvellously bonkers. The actors who shared our table made it impossible to tell when they were in character as maids or being themselves, they were hilarious either way. The murderer was a mystery to all involved until the very end. The games keeper Tam was declared to be the murderer despite his ignorance of how he would benefit from the deaths.



As well as the friendliness the constants have been the wind and frequent hailshowers. Although we have had brief patches of stunning sunshine its normally preceded and followed by stinging hail showers. The winter long storm has produced some spectacular waves but bring on the spring time.











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