Messaging via a popular social media site produced a few fools looking to find some rock to climb. A wet morning was predicted followed a supposedly brighter afternoon. Myself and Andy met at Ben's abode for to make a plan whilst eating scones (thanksBen). To my mind options were head to the quick drying crag Almscliff; a bit of a gamble as weather looked worse Westwards and Ben needed to back for 5pm. Alternatively bouldering at the ever dry but not especially inspiring Ravenswick quarry. The final option as suggested by Ben was one of the traverses at local crag Peak Scar which mostly stays dry.
Peak Scar is one of my least favourite crags (though inexplicably popular).It is effectively like trying to climb a giant, typically moist pile of limestoneish Jenga bricks. It gave me the heeby jeebies the first time I saw it and they have never left. I tend to go once a year to remind myself how much I dislike it. Despite the less than flattering description the routes are generally good, and longer and steeper than average for the moors.
Given the weather it was a good option. I've been wanting to do a girdle traverse for a while (though not at Peak Scare) and such old school tomfoolery would be a laugh as a group.
Another Andy joined us just as we were heading down the mud slope to the crag. We decided to go as a 4 on 2 ropes (in hindsight would of been safer to climb as 2 pairs).
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| Mmm lovely |
We scrambled up to the starter ledge, Ben tried to climb the trickyish step to the next ledge before common sense took hold of him. Andy had first lead and made steady progress up the step before traversing rightwards to belay on the classic severe Jordu.
I foolishly volunteered to have the next pitch which traverses underneath the massive and slowly departing block above the now tree deprived Ornithology.
I mostly arse shuffled along until I came to an impase as I had shuffled too far using the lower break for hands and couldn't summon the bottle to reach the upper ledge from my position. After a bit of indecision I retreated back to the belay and passed the reigns onto choss supremo Ben who merrily shot off quite strenuously hand traversing the epicly loose block until a tricky move down to the lower break which is followed with interest to the belay. Certainly harder than the given grade of hard severe.
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| Ben in his element |
This pitch had serious feel with spaced gear especially with 2 people on 1 rope increasing the potential consequence of any fall.
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| The toughest pitch of the day |
Fortunately we all made it the belay safely. And once again Andy forlornly offered his sausage around but no one had a nibble.
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| Unpopular sausage |
Andy had the next lead, It started with a fun juggy step across a gap before he disappeared round a corner. The route description became a bit vague and we heard various mutterings about wet rock and a lot of tooing and froing. Eventually a belay was found just round the corner and was again Ben was to the fore whilst me and Andy stayed on the other belay.
After some quality posing
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| Loon! |
Ben skipped up what proved to be a very wet rising traverse. Andy soon followed on one rope before me and Andy followed on the other rope. Andy had some very understandable trouble committing to pulling on a sopping wet hold. As is often the case it went fine when he committed to the move and with Andy moving ahead of me and being on the same rope I had not the time to faff about which I would of done given the chance. Fortunately I found useful underclings in the lower break allowing me to get my feet up and be less reliant on the soppy hold. The rest of the pitch was easier but still required care.
With all of us reunited on the same belay we discussed wether to continue traversing or escape. We all were enjoying our wee adventure but only Ben tried to encourage us to continue going sideways. A 3:1 vote to gaining terra firma was the result.
More ledge shuffling before a mostly dry juggy finish followed with some excitement as not one but two owls flew out of a cave after Ben had climbed past (I love owls).
We all reached the top and treated ourselves to a lovely ale at the lovely pub. An excellent little adventure and best of all that's my Peak Scar trip for the year done!
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| A Owls! |
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| Andy escaping the traverse |
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| Terra Firma! |
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