I traveled down on the Friday, it was a long slow journey, I can't believe other people had the bright idea taking the Friday off! And I wasn't best pleased by getting held up by a steam engine trundling along at 5mph on the A30!
10 hours after I started I pulled up rather jaded and frustrated at the Bosigran car park to head down to Halldrine Cove for unwinding solo session. The sun was out and the rock was lovely. 5 steady solos at diff/vdiff up some slabs and grooves greatly destressed body and mind after the journey.
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| Footelfie? |
After a few attempts I found the entrance into the campsite park up near what I correctly guessed is Team Coups van, I assume they are in the pub and quickly get on with cooking tea to join them. Turns out they were dog walking not in the pub, I join the group around their non yellow van as they cook their dinner until the cold forces us into the warmer climes of the pub for a pint of Rattler.
Saturday morning arrives and the sun is breaking through the clouds the next task is to decide where to climb. I am not too fussed as have done so little in the region but I favour Kendijack which is home to a classic HVS and E1. Curly Rich and Tristan are keen but despite their 7a prowess talk themselves out of it and we head off to Bosigran along with every other man, woman and dog.
I'm climbing with Gavin who has done plenty on the crag. We start off on the easy classic Doorpost with 1 team ahead of us. I have the first pitch, feel a bit rusty climbing granite my least climbed upon rock type. Dampness at the crux adds interest to my pitch but the belay is reached without incident. Gavin soon reaches me and steadily climbs the fantastic twin crack system above. An enjoyable climb.
The crag is busy and getting busier so we shuffle left to find a route devoid of punters. I somehow spot the drably dressed Tristan seconding Zig Zag.
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| Drabby climber! |
The 2 star HS Autumn Flakes is free so we rack up and I climb the first pitch which has requires a small burst of laybacking. The 2nd pitch has tricky route finding and some interesting climbing up a flake system. The crux is supposed to bethe start to the 3rd pitch.
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| Gavin at the top of the first pitch of Autumn Flakes |
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| Gavin finding the way |
Gavin finds a comfortable belay ledge just above some tricky climbing. I set off from the belay and fail to find some thin moves leftwards before I hit a straight forward groove to the top. We have taken a more direct line on the 2nd pitch and cleverly avoided the crux!
The sun is still out and after a lunch break there is time for one more route, I aim for the classic VS Ochre slab but 2 old boys beat us to the start. I settle for Ding a 2 star VS. The exact line isn't obvious from the start as I can't see past the first groove.We can spot some crag booty early on but when reached the cam has almost completely dissolved in the sea air, wasn't even worth clipping. Steady well protected climbing gets me to the first bulge, It is quite intimidating but a jug can be found just over the lip, however little can found to pull onto straight above, I grope around to the right but the only very rounded holds can be found, I briefly have an attempt at a direct massive rock over but that is clearly not a VS move. A few footholds can be seen on the right and what looks like a positive holds. The reachy move rises the heartbeat but is fine when committed too. More nice climbing leads to the next bulge which is much more intimidating from below then the first.
There is no weakness to the left or the right. With trustworthy gear placed I move up to the bulge with some trepidation and almost straightaway found a massively positive flake to the right completely hidden from below. Quite a relief. I easily rock over onto easier ground I am apparently aiming for a ledge with massive spike to belay off. I have fun udging up a crack system before increasing rope drag and decreasing gear on my rack encourages me to stop and belay. I feel I might of done more than the pitch length of 30m. When Gavin joins me I find out I have done almost exactly 30m. A ledge can me made out a few metres higher with something spike like.
Gavin's pitch involves a committing groove before a gratuitous and exhilarating pull over an
overhang leads to the top.
Fortunately we finished at the same time as Rich and Tris so no waiting around for a lift and we were soon back at the campsite. I stayed away from the pub to save money initially but as with the night before the chill soon got too much and walked the 100 yards into the pub for some liquid refreshment. A large cross dressing gentleman patron of the North inn was unexpected and unjudged. We resisted the pull of extra pints and retired reasonably early after 10. A most worthwhile day
Sunday morning was wet with visibility limited to 100 yards or so.
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| Meh! |
After a pasty from the local shop we found a cafe in St Ives to scour weather forecasts. The clag showed no signs of clearing and with heavy showers predicted for Sunday mornings we reluctantly decided to bail. Rather frustratingly the weather didn't encourage stopping off anywhere on the way home. At the least the traffic was light and a mere 8 hours after I left the campsite I was home.
On balance probably not worth the diesel/carbon cost despite one fantastic day and seeing various friends with new babies and/or puppies. I don't regret taking the gamble but it is time for Winter to fuck off.
A spot of lazing then gardening then more lazing watching the snooker Monday. Tuesday I bouldered at Brimham feeling a bit weak despite wearing my new red trousers.
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