The Grooves

The August Bank holiday loomed and finally my good buddy Jurgen was free to climb with a promising forecast so Friday morning I decided to head to Snowdonia. Conflicting emotions were provided by going to see a potential new kitty Friday evening.

Heidi aka Ginger princess

Obviously we couldn't say no to little Heidi, She was to picked up Sat morning so with a heavy heart I drove down to Wales missing out on Heidi meeting our resident flat faced fluffballs. A steady journey was had and vanned it just past the Pen Y Grwyd hotel waking up to stunning views of the Nantgwynant valley and the Snowdon horseshoe. The hordes had already started up Snowdon by 8am and the Llanberis pass was in fine fettle as I drove through. Breakfast was sourced at Spar and I knocked on Jurgen's door.
Given the weather the plan shifted from climbing on the coast to heading up the pass. Jurgen had long coveted The Grooves up on Cyrn Las reputedly one of the finest E1's in the land. It was on my radar so decision was quickly made and with Jurgen's CC membership parking was not an issue. I was slightly apprehensive as have not managed many E points this year.
We met one other team on the way up were heading up for the classic E4 The Skull. There were about 3 teams on the HS classic Main Wall which is high up on my to do list.

Cyrn Las, The Grooves to the right of the crag in shadow

We had The Grooves to ourselves. Fortunately It was Jurgen's lead meaning I had only 1 pitch to lead out of 3 5b pitches. Less fortunately for me we were climbing with Jurgens random monochrome rack over my colour coordinated organised rack.
The first pitches crux is early on and must of been tricky as Jurgen laced it. It is a long pitch and I was getting a bit chilly by the time the rope went tight and it was my turn to climb. I soon warmed up as I jammed and udged my way through the first awkward bulge. Jurgen managed a step left at some point which I couldn't work out and kept squirming straight up. The pitch keeps coming at you with sustained, interesting climbing with searching for footholds a theme.
I arrived at the belay having considered passing on the next lead as struggled up the first pitch. An enticing groove loomed above us so I cast doubts aside racked up and headed up. The climbing was more sustained and harder than it looked. It is also well protected so I lace the rock as I ascend the superb pitch.
About a 3rd of the way up I get a little pumped at an tricky jamming section and can't see the next rest so shamefully rest on the rope rather than risk a fall. Whilst resting I realise I was failing to see a crack to the left to jam my foot into. I blast though the section on next attempt but the climb doesn't let up in quality or difficulty. I take another short rest further up and again noticed footholds I missed during the tunnel vision of leading. For the last 20 foot I had run out of quickdraws so had to improvise extending gear with cams and spare crabs. It looked messy but eventually I reached a spacious belay ledge relaxed and started to bring up a now partially frozen climbing partner. Jurgen massaged my ego by taking his time to second the pitch and claim it was harder than the first (I'm not so sure).
The last pitch involved a crouching traverse before Jurgen disappeared into a groove above.

The rope moved steadily and soon it went tight and off I went. The awkward traverse led to a position of stunning exposure.

Photo doesn't do justice to the exposure

  The steepness steps up a lot and looming above is 20 foot of overhanging groove with a lot of space beneath your feet. The holds are juggy but include some worrying looking wedged in spikes which also provide the gear. They felt more solid than they looked. The holds disconcertingly diminished near the top of the groove leaving just a shiny looking crack to use. A glance out right provides succour as an obviously decent hold is in sight but not necessarily within reach. A rearrangement of hands and trusting feet to smears and the jug is reached followed by the top of the groove and a ledge to depump.
There is still climbing to be done but much easier than what was found below. The route finding is less obvious, I am tired so take my time so mistakes aren't made. Mistakes weren't made and the climb was completed, not clean but without too much drama. We could now bask in the sun having climbed in the shade. It was bout 4pm so we wouldn't of won any speed awards and weary bodies and threatening clouds meant a jaunt up Main Wall wasn't considered.

A spectacular and incredibly sustained route, a fine day out followed by a relaxed evening at chez Dissman. Trying to sleep was less relaxing with a tremendous thunderstorm and rain as sustained as The Grooves. Some sleep was snatched before reconvening at Jurgens to come up with a plan. With an evening bbq planned we didn't risk driving an hour to the coast and instead opted for the quick drying slate. Unfortunately morning remained murky and there was water cascading out of the bottom of the crag near Bella Lugosi.

We took the rack for a walk through the always interesting quarries and back to Llanberis for lunch. We decided to gamble on the RAC boulders over the other side of the pass. This paid off as the fun and convenient boulders were bathed in sunshine. A good session was had before an excellent brai.
Despite a positive Monday forecast I was on the road before 7am to make up for lost kitten time!

Bimbling in N Wales

At least once a year my good buddies Paul,  Rich and I attempt to climb together followed by curry and beer which is a clearly a winning combination. We often struggle to actually climb together and this year is no exception but we do normally manage the curry and beer.
The weather was looking good at our first choice venue of N Wales, Big Rich was keen for the overly popular Idwal slabs for the Sat, I wasn't so he tried to source another partner and went a bit quiet on the interweb chat, Paul was up for anything as has done little in N Wales.
The traffic was sticky but ok on the Friday and gave me time for 3 little solos at the premier beginners venue of Tryfan Fach(little Tryfan) to get the journey out of my system. I was most aggrieved when I found a mini bus taking up my favourite spot in the Nant Peris campsite, some people have no manners! Paul soon joined me in the campsite having had to replace one of his tyres on the way.
We retreated from the midges into the confines of the Vaynol Arms to come up with a plan of action. We decided to go for the easy mountain classic of Outside Edge route on Cym Silm which has been on my to do list for a while and numerous people I know have ticked it off this year so was feeling left out. We sent Big Rich a message to see what the hell he was up to.

It was claggy in the morning which wasn't unexpected and Big Rich had bailed on the climbing (which also wasn't unexpected) citing tiredness and need to buy a tent for his upcoming Dolomites pizza eating expedition. We stuck with out plan and found the end of the correct road with no hassle. The clouds were still low as we set off down the track for an expected 1 hour walk in.

The easy track turned into an average path when we reached the little lakes, as the path steepens upwards into the mist we rather randomly strike off the path heading to a col through rocky and boggy hole ridden terrain in search of some rock.

Where the fuck is the crag!

After 30 mins or so hard slog some common sense prevails and we refer to maps and guidebooks to work out we should of just stayed on the path. Which is obvious if you think about it but at the time we didn't. I did find an empty bottle by the lake and removed it from the pristine landscape earning us some karma from our stupidity.
Our return to the path was quicker as we stuck to the lake shore but wet feet resulted as we expertly found some streams to sink in. A team of 4 was heading up the path when we reached it and I raced up the scree slope to put the beach towels down on the bottom of the route.
The other teams were more relaxed than me about getting on the route and I was soon setting off on the first pitch whilst Paul was getting his breath back. The first pitch wasn't overly interesting much in contrast to the superlative second.

1st Pitch

The 2nd pitch traverses to the left on an inviting ledges with just enough gear to calm the nerves. The slope at the bottom of the crag means the exposure is far greater than would be expected for a second pitch.

2nd Pitch

Paul made it up to the sunset ledge which is further than the route description but a very logical thing to do. I had a 5 metres leftwards walk, there was no obvious belay which I would expect on such terrain. An adequate thread round a wobbly chockstone sufficed and I led on as I still had all the gear and was pointless to swap around. I had more leftwards traversing to do but this time on rock before finding an easy groove upwards to another large ledge and a belay below the crux pitch.

Sunset Ledge

We were briefly distracted by the distant sight of 2 naked looking bodies swimming in the lake far below which were later surmised were the 2 ladies who started up the diff to the right of our route, so we technically we saw ladies skinny dipping!
Paul calmly dispatched the crux pitch which was a bit run out to start and steep to finish. I soon followed and took on the last pitch. The last pitch is scrambly with an indistinct line, I went up a slightly interesting looking groove feature and soon regretted it as the protruding block in the middle of the groove was very loose. Both me and Paul managed to negotiate around without using the block. Would of been better to avoid this section altogether.
We leisurely ate our lunch and packed the kit away enjoying the views and the sunshine. We contacted Rich to see if he fancied some early evening climbing but he had left his climbing kit at home and was in the pub.

People just starting crux pitch

Our walk off was pleasant and gave us fine views of the crag as we descended the last of the Nantile Ridge. Our enthusiasm for further climbing diminished  as our indirect walk in caught up to us and chilling in the sun with Rich appealed. We stopped off in Llanberis for a quick gear shop. V12 had no more of my desired climbing shoes but a new cam was attained and I somehow resisted the temptation of the new SMC guide to the Southern Highland Outcrops.
An hours rehydration back at the campsite was followed by a cracking curry. Stuffed to the gills a derisory amount of beer was drunk in Vaynol after as bodies were full and tired.

Big Rich left early Sunday morning for a charity thing. Me and Paul managed the first excellent pitch of Direct route on Milestone buttress before the reemergence of an old war wound encouraged retreat.

Best crag swag ever!

I had time for a little explore of the boulders below the crag (mostly too highball for me) before the rain began and home I went.

Welsh trip from a couple of years ago

Another N Wales trip; this time with added Ben

Whilst on my last trip with Ben to Arran we discovered we had a mutual small number of annual leave allowance to use and mooted a autumn weekend somewhere. A few months later neither of has a better offer and booked off a Monday and Tuesday late September with a destination to be decided later.

The title is a bit of a spoiler, we went to Snowdonia due to an acceptable forecast and the incredible variety of climbing available. We stopped off at the historic Pen Y Grwd Hotel for a pint late Friday despite the recent poor report I received from a venerable CMC member who last frequented the establishment a mere 40 years ago. Not the friendliest of welcome but beer and character in abundance.

During the preceding week I rather absentmindedly suggested the Lleyn Peninsula classic Fantan B to Ben in part due to confidence instilled by recent success on Mousetrap and one of my random climbing goal of getting a list one tick in every climbing area of Great Britain (‘area’ yet to be defined but going with definitive guidebooks for now).

I say absentmindedly as Ben is when of the few climbers I know who would instantly agree to such an absurd suggestion as choss is to Ben is as bones are to dogs, chips to sea gulls or neck tattoos to chavs. Fantan B also came with the added kudos of supreme choss enthusiast Chris Woodall having failed to find the route). The absurdity was further evidenced by few of the hugely experienced Climbers Club members frequenting the Ynns Ettws hut had even heard of the Lleyn Peninsula let alone climbed there. The weather was predicted to be claggy in the mountains Saturday so Plan A was Fantan B.

Sure enough the clag was down in the pass so off to the Lleyn we went. The clouds were still a bit grey allowing me to voice some dissent as the guidebook states ‘All in all a serious proposition, where a good weather forecast is essential. It might also pay to have a couple of grades in hand, just to be sure!’. Ben was naturally keen and the classic euphemism ‘let’s just take a look’ reared its head.

So we did, a pleasant ramble down an old quarry road leads unsurprisingly to a large quarry. At the back of which is an old rusty cable winding down a steep grassy bank to the sea. Option 1 is to hand over hand this down the slope but we opted for option abseil as seemed safer and less likely to trash your hands.

I went down first loaded with ironmongery including Ben’s old geological hammer and some pegs and tried to find the start of the route. This wasn’t obvious but could just spot the goal of a pinkish belay ledge amongst the guano. The first pitch traverses for 40m, the line wasn’t obvious but I seemed to find a logical way to the ledge with sparse gear along the way. The next pitch similarly traverses further rightwards but with some height gain including some nice exposure on an arête.

1 st ledge shuffling pitch

The third pitch is where the scale of our undertaking becomes obvious as you are finally on the cliff face proper. If a complex, guano encrusted and poorly protected face can be deemed proper. The 3^rd pitch description mentions an obvious overhang and further rightwards traversing. Looking above, the cliff is festooned with overhangs which is the obvious one is unclear to me. I quest vaguely up and rightwards the climbing straightforward but each metre gained is an extra metre committed.

With numerous ganders at the guidebook and with head slowly frazzingly I ponder the best path upwards. I aim for an obvious leftwards groove but am puzzled so far by the absence of a dangerously perched block mentioned in the route description. Has it gone?

No! there it is further right. The wall to the right of the block the guidebook mentions I should climb looks harder and bolder than I fancy since I can’t spot the peg you aim for. Plus despite the limited gear I placed climbing further rightwards before back leftwards would be problematic due to the line I took and I didn’t want ropes running over the perched block. I scuttle back left and slowly climb the easyish groove to a belay of sorts where I could see the groove that surely comprises the next pitch. Whether through unconscious competence or conscious incompetence I had avoided the crux of my pitch and stayed on route!

After short pitch to a better belay Ben took on an alleged 4b pitch with more confusing description to not follow. The pitch is not supposed to climb the previously mentioned groove in its entirety but is a nice line and Ben naturally couldn’t resist. The groove contained by far the hardest climbing so far and the most pointless bit of insitu gear clipped so far. A grotty weathered sling that was merely wedged behind a chockstone rather than the more traditional wrapping around the chockstone. After the groove there is an exciting traverse cum down climb onto the most outrageous belay ledge imaginable. About the size of decent size coffee table it was massively undercut so consequently despite the mostly rambling nature of the terrain so far there was a straight drop to the sea of about 150m. A stupendous position with the crux pitch to come.

Stupendous belay

Having had a minor freak out on the third pitch I decided to let the choss hound keep going for expedience sake though the pull through the roof above the belay looked great fun and was. Ben soon scuttled up out of sight and eventually the ropes pulled tight and I followed another meandering pitch with 2 steep pulls through overhangs the second of which protected solely by some ageing pegs reassuringly bent downwards.

I found Ben relaxing on a massive ledge enjoying lobbing rocks into the sea and waiting for the splash. The next pitch had another alleged 4b move before disappointingly degenerating into a grassy slope. The climb seemingly over I brought Ben up and he went on up the grass slope and found himself on the wonderfully gendarmed ridge atop of the quarry we abseiled from. I, in hindsight, rather foolishly expected to find ourselves back on the quarry floor whence we started rather than being on top of the quarry 100m above our sacks. This was a wonderful bonus. We went into alpine mode moving together across the narrow ridge, if one of us slipped into the quarry the other would have to jump toward the sea. A cracking finish to an exciting adventure during which we had only a lone barking seal for company.

Alpine Quarry Ridge (PD)

My next thought was ticking the climb in my book then burning it so I could never return! Type 2 fun for me.

We slogged back up the hill me with the ab rope again as the wily Ben having played the dodgy knee card about 10 minutes into the journey Friday before I could play my Tough Mudder rib injury card. 

We headed back to Llanberis and had enough time to squeeze in a couple of sport routes on the slate. I loved the contrast of the routes we did. Fantan B is a rock climb so were the 2 sport routes but that was all that had in common. The skill set and experience required for a Fantan B is far removed from the demands of a pleasant sport route.

Sunday dawned claggy again and we again went to the sea side, this time Gogarth. Ben was trying to tempt me down to the lower tier for the classic of Scavenger but I was bit adventured out and with high tide in the morning the higher sea cliff traverse was not appealing to me zone so we went for the upper tier. 

I have heard that Gogarth is best avoided early morning due to sweaty rock and it was early morning. I started on the Gauntlet and found the crux starting groove very sweaty. I found cursing and whining whilst placing lots of micro wires helped me scrape up the groove. There is a peg in the groove with what I assume was someone’s shoe lace bleached white by the sun hanging from it. It held the weight of my lightest quickdraw but I’m not convinced it would hold much else. I found a semi rest before a bulge where I spent an age whining about the sweaty rock and depumping before continuing upwards the crux beneath me but interest maintained to the belay. My rack emptied into the rock from smallest wires to biggest cam, a cracking pitch. Ben’s pitch was much shorter but fun. There was an insitu abseil anchor which we took advantage of saving a long walk round. Unfortunately the rope stuck on something and took some effort to pull through, HVS 5b rope pulling.

Next up was The Ramp. First pitch fell to me again more excellent sustained climbing with a few spicy run outs. The 2^nd pitch has a truly out there swing across a bottomless chimney before getting established in the groove above. It was very exciting on second, on lead without a runner above would be most memorable. A good effort by Ben.

Back to the gearing up area for some nourishment with daylight diminishing we have some indecision regarding our next route. Ben was tempted by the uber classic The Strand which someone cruised up whilst we climbed The Ramp but we plumped for the more amenable Holyhead Mountain which you pass on the walk back to the car park. King Bee Crack however, is anything but amenable. It looks fine from the ground but a goier HVS is hard to imagine (Nowanda, Gardoms is one though).

The next day finally gave us a cloudless morning and we could take advantage of staying in the heart of Llanberis pass. The call was the Cromlech and with only 1 route on both our minds; the peerless classic of Cenotaph Corner. The slog up to the crag was easier than I remembered and we were first on the crag. I suggested we dump the sacks before scrambling up to the base of the corner, we didn’t, we should of. After a polite discussion as to who would go first Ben went on the basis he had been waiting to do the route longer. Too late I realised we forgot the peg hammer for Ben to drop on my head in homage to Joe Browns first attempt on the route. There was palpable nervous tension in the air, not due to danger but to the reputation and history of the route. Ben made steady progress and with a few huff and puffs at the crux  Ben had the route in the bag it and was soon abbing down stripping the paltry 17 pieces of gear he placed. We had more problems pulling ropes down and then it was my turn to attempt the fabled Cenotaph Corner.

The reputation of the route weighed heavy and was achey from the previous 2 days but the sun was out and the line is perfect. The rock of the Cromlech is superbly featured and the early  8m crux was soon despatched. I plugged in gear with wild abandon as I bridged/smeared and laybacked upwards to the upper crux. I don’t bother to clip the ancient peg from the niche below the crux, Decent micro wire and small cam encouraged some strenuous bridging upwards to more gear. I dilly dallied on the last moves trying to find some larger dimples to pull on but none were to be found I committed and scraped my way to the finishing jugs. Hurrah!

I extracted a less than paltry 26 pieces of gear abbing down possibly some kind of record. We got back down to the sacks and for once the ropes pulled freely. Next up was the lesser classic of Ivy Sepulchre. I had the truly awful first pitch as described in the CC guide. Other guides suggest traversing from the ledge below the corner which is considerably less vegetated and scrappy than the route I took.

Ben had the main pitch and we weren’t bothering with the hassle of stripping on ab. We both enjoyed another superb sustained corner pitch. More rope retrieval hassles were endured followed by more next route indecision. Fortunately rain intervened so back to the hut for some tea and triple chocolate cake inexplicably left in the fridge.

Tuesday morning the body was weary and the weather was dreary. Not fancying a drive to coast or Tremadog we went back to slate via the multi tiered fun of Australia. Ben had done little other than the nutty scramble Snakes and ladders on the slate I had done bit more so I pointed Ben at the classic slate mixed ethic of Looning the Tube I lead last year. Gear consists of 2 bolts, a rusty chain to sling and a cam placement.

It was quite entertaining watching Ben have severe words with himself traversing across to the chain, he’s completely home at running it above rusty peg on guano encrusted choss but a few feet from a bolt on the rather unique medium of slate not a happy bunny. This may sound cruel but Ben was planning to jump on the considerably harder and bolder  classic Comes the Dervish so the experience will have done some good (and possibly knock some sense into him).

Looning the tube

We moved to pure sport routes after. Highlight for me the tricky groove of Gaddafi Duck (6b). Ben did a fine lead of the tricky and excellently monikered Orangatang Overhang (6a+). When I huffed and puffed up a 5 I took this as a sign we should retreat to the delights of Llanberis. New harness and N Wales Limestone purchased before cheesy chip butty at Petes Eats.

A dam fine and tiring long weekend. On the drive back Ben was flicking through the Limestone guidebook and found a sea cliff HVS traverse he suggested we solo since we drive through limestone country on the way back. I laughed on the outside and cried on the inside. I’m pretty sure he was serious, my only thought was of getting home and lying down. Ben is seemingly inexhaustible and possibly worth sectioning; excellent attributes for a climbing partner to have.

Trip to Cider and Pasty country

For the May bank holiday Guildford MC were off to West Cornwall. Having not been that way in about 7 years and only 2 previous trips I booked the Friday and Tuesday in anticipation of a super long weekend of sunshine and golden granite. So far the 2016 winter had been outstaying its welcome (was climbing in snow showers at Scugdale on the Monday) and the forecast was causing indecision. After some forum debate and weather cross referencing solid group or GMC regulars decided to make the journey.
I traveled down on the Friday, it was a long slow journey, I can't believe other people had the bright idea taking the Friday off! And I wasn't best pleased by getting held up by a steam engine trundling along at 5mph on the A30!
10 hours after I started I pulled up rather jaded and frustrated at the Bosigran car park to head down to Halldrine Cove for unwinding solo session. The sun was out and the rock was lovely. 5 steady solos at diff/vdiff up some slabs and grooves greatly destressed body and mind after the journey.

Footelfie?

After a few attempts I found the entrance into the campsite park up near what I correctly guessed is Team Coups van, I assume they are in the pub and quickly get on with cooking tea to join them. Turns out they were dog walking not in the pub, I join the group around their non yellow van as they cook their dinner until the cold forces us into the warmer climes of the pub for a pint of Rattler.

Saturday morning arrives and the sun is breaking through the clouds the next task is to decide where to climb. I am not too fussed as have done so little in the region but I favour Kendijack which is home to a classic HVS and E1. Curly Rich and Tristan are keen but despite their 7a prowess talk themselves out of it and we head off to Bosigran along with every other man, woman and dog.
I'm climbing with Gavin who has done plenty on the crag. We start off on the easy classic Doorpost with 1 team ahead of us. I have the first pitch, feel a bit rusty climbing granite my least climbed upon rock type. Dampness at the crux adds interest to my pitch but the belay is reached without incident. Gavin soon reaches me and steadily climbs the fantastic twin crack system above. An enjoyable climb.
The crag is busy and getting busier so we shuffle left to find a route devoid of punters. I somehow spot the drably dressed Tristan seconding Zig Zag.

Drabby climber!

The 2 star HS Autumn Flakes is free so we rack up and I climb the  first pitch which has requires a small burst of laybacking. The 2nd pitch has tricky route finding and some interesting climbing up a flake system. The crux is supposed to bethe start to the 3rd pitch.

Gavin at the top of the first pitch of Autumn Flakes

Gavin finding the way

Gavin finds a comfortable belay ledge just above some tricky climbing. I set off from the belay and fail to find some thin moves leftwards before I hit a straight forward groove to the top. We have taken a more direct line on the 2nd pitch and cleverly avoided the crux!
The sun is still out and after a lunch break there is time for one more route, I aim for the classic VS Ochre slab but 2 old boys beat us to the start. I settle for Ding a 2 star VS. The exact line isn't obvious from the start as I can't see past the first groove.We can spot some crag booty early on but when reached the cam has almost completely dissolved in the sea air, wasn't even worth clipping. Steady well protected climbing gets me to the first bulge, It is quite intimidating but a jug can be found just over the lip, however little can found to pull onto straight above, I grope around to the right but the only very rounded holds can be found, I briefly have an attempt at a direct massive rock over but that is clearly not a VS move. A few footholds can be seen on the right and what looks like a positive holds. The reachy move rises the heartbeat but is fine when committed too. More nice climbing leads to the next bulge which is much more intimidating from below then the first.
There is no weakness to the left or the right. With trustworthy gear placed I move up to the bulge with some trepidation and almost straightaway found a massively positive flake to the right completely hidden from below. Quite a relief. I easily rock over onto easier ground I am apparently aiming for a ledge with massive spike to belay off. I have fun udging up a crack system before increasing rope drag and decreasing gear on my rack encourages me to stop and belay. I feel I might of done more than the pitch length of 30m. When Gavin joins me I find out I have done almost exactly 30m. A ledge can me made out a few metres higher with something spike like.

Gavin's pitch involves a committing groove before a gratuitous and exhilarating pull over an
overhang leads to the top.

Fortunately we finished at the same time as Rich and Tris so no waiting around for a lift and we were soon back at the campsite. I stayed away from the pub to save money initially but as with the night before the chill soon got too much and walked the 100 yards into the pub for some liquid refreshment. A large cross dressing gentleman patron of the North inn was unexpected and unjudged. We resisted the pull of extra pints and retired reasonably early after 10. A most worthwhile day

Sunday morning was wet with visibility limited to 100 yards or so.

Meh!

After a pasty from the local shop we found a cafe in St Ives to scour weather forecasts.  The clag showed no signs of clearing and with heavy showers predicted for Sunday mornings we reluctantly decided to bail. Rather frustratingly the weather didn't encourage stopping off anywhere on the way home. At the least the traffic was light and a mere 8 hours after I left the campsite I was home.
On balance probably not worth the diesel/carbon cost despite one fantastic day and seeing various friends with new babies and/or puppies. I don't regret taking the gamble but it is time for Winter to fuck off.

A spot of lazing then gardening then more lazing watching the snooker Monday. Tuesday I bouldered at Brimham feeling a bit weak despite wearing my new red trousers.

Mmm Grit

This weekend plan A was joining  Guildford Mountaineering club in the Peak district.
The grit normally been a pleasant option in April especially for my Birthday weekend.

The weekend before I had a sunny but chilly day clipping bolts at Robin Proctors Scar after a miserable week of weather in the Moray Firth (a few hours bouldering at Cullen Caves 1 day and 1.5 routes at the lovely Logies Head was the sum climbing total).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3FbFtyNnqs

The  bolt clipping was fun, though I was bit off what I aspire my pace to be but still new numerous flashes from 6a to 6b.

Some 6a ish thing at Robin Proctors Scar

Mid week weather was poor but one evening session at Almscliff was achieved. Weather was grim on the journey down to the peak meaning I had to forego my usual evenings solo session at Birchen. Few southern based GMCers were on the meet list, Jurgen and Big Rich were off aiding Saturday so I met Paul and newly Sheffield based Anjay at the campsite in the morning. Sunshine was out but chill in the air and snow on the ground.
Lower crags felt a more sensible bet to keep out of the wind so after some deliberation we plumped for the safe, pleasant but not too exciting Birchen Edge. By not too exciting I mean there is very little at my desired grade range of HVS/E1.
The crag was mostly dry when we arrived and after a few solos Anjay was first up with a rope and took on Hammock a 5b eliminate start to Camperdown Crawl. Anjays purist mindset meant he refused the inviting crack of Camperdown for gear as well as holds. This meant a rather worrying spot as hes' a big lad but he made it to easy ground and gear without incident.
Paul having not climbed all year used the Camperdown crack a bit, I managed the 5b moves ok. I was up next and went for the tricky Barnacle bulge which I cruised last time I did it having previously failed on it many moons ago. Birchen is filled with hard starts as much of it is undercut at the base. After much huffing and puffing and up and downing followed by a change of approach I manged to do the hard start and bimble up the easy ground above. My seconds followed with a bit less fuss.

Next Anjay went for the famed sandbag of Orpheus wall with much used gear placements at the crux. After a couple of rests/falls and some ground based beta from me, Anjay dispatched the awkward crux and disappeared from view to find a belay after some jubilation. My seconding didn't go as well. Getting off the ground is surprisingly hard and had a little fall whilst Anjay was belaying the other rope attached to Paul!
The crux didn't go as well as the sunshine had left us leaving me with numb fingers to grasp rubbish holds, this combined with lack of will to fight the reachy move lead to shameful lower. At least I got the gear out!

Photo courtesy of Paul

It was now Pauls turn to lead the way and he chose the miniature classic, Powder Monkey Parade. Paul had an amusing struggle surmounting the chockstone after the starting thrutchy groove. After a rest and delivery of large cams the traverse was quickly dispatched followed by the finishing slab.

Paul on Powder Monkey Parade

I have done the start to Powder Monkey Parade numerous times as other routes share the udgy groove start. Today I struggled like never before to leave the ground, much to Paul's amusement. I did the notorious offwidth Desperation Crack at Brimham a year ago with less hassle.
Anjay then went for and got a clean ascent of Orpheus Wall. Whilst he was sorting out the ab I quickly nipped up the the one move wonder classic of Top Sail (Which according to my log book I first lead 6 years ago on my birthday). I followed this up with Porthole Direct a fun varied route including a slab, awkward groove, a lying down grovel before a overhanging chockstone finish. Despite the finishing move alone being harder than the 'move' on Topsail it has an easier grade (HS, in the definitive guide?)
Last route of the day was my personal highlight the Crows Nest. A wide crack to start into which I placed my monster cam before lovely classy gritstone slab padding leading to mini pinnacle summit. Both Anjay and Paul enjoyed this one as well.
A pleasant evening with Guildford Mountaineering club Splitters group (People from Yorkshire, N Wales, Lancashire, Sheffield and Norwich). Jurgen and Big Rich had fun attempting to aid some bolted roof thing in Dovehole Quarries. A few 'extra' beers were enjoyed with Rich after everyone else had retired to their beds.
After a chilly night Sunday dawned bright again. The first problem to overcome was extracting my van from the bog I had plonked it in Friday evening. Muscle power didn't work so had to resort to VW power.

Thanks Jurgen and the pushers!

The next problem was where to go with limited imagination we settled for Stanage Plantation as felt the more preferred Millstone/Lawrencefield might still be damp. Anjay was keen to get on the softish E1 Milsoms Minion I recommended to him. That was first route of the day and was dispatched in fine style.
In a fun coincidence Big Rich wandered by as I was seconding so got to show him a free climbing masterclass with no shortage of banter flowing. I wasn't feeling overly motivated and as the area we were in filled up with fellow punters. We wandered rightwards, from afar I could see the Unconquerables were strangely quiet until I got closer and noticed the seepage at the bottom of the route explaining the lack of ascentionists.
I went for the nice looking line of Namenlos as was keen for an extreme tick (though it exists on the HVS/E1 border line). The starting crack was more strenuous than it looked but not too bad. At the top of the crack I went left and executed a heinous mantle pulling on rubbish rounded holds. Once stood safely on the ledge I commented that was never 5a to be told by Paul I should gone higher before traversing left. Never mind, I can justify the E1 tick with my direct variant.

Me starting Namenlos

 A pleasant bold looking groove beckoned above. Less than inspiring cams caused hesitation but the chap before had got some gear just above so on I went.  I tried and failed to get a decent nut in the flared crack from an awkward out of balance position before just committing to the enjoyable bold climbing to easy ground and safety. It reminded me of Kirkus Corner further down the crag.
The final route of the day was an at times desperate and brutal wide crack VS/HVS called Wall Buttress, good effort by Anjay on the lead.

Time for ice cream to soothe my grit rash then home.

Grit Rash with added chipped finger nail

4 men went to traverse a crag, went to traverse a crag

Another weekend beckoned and another indifferent forecast was the reward for 5 days of toil keeping the railways safe for the children.
Messaging via a popular social media site produced a few fools looking to find some rock to climb. A wet morning was predicted followed a supposedly brighter afternoon. Myself and Andy met at Ben's abode for to make a plan whilst eating scones (thanksBen). To my mind options were head to the quick drying crag Almscliff; a bit of a gamble as weather looked worse Westwards and Ben needed to back for 5pm. Alternatively bouldering at the ever dry but not especially inspiring Ravenswick quarry. The final option as suggested by Ben was one of the traverses at local crag Peak Scar which mostly stays dry.
Peak Scar is one of my least favourite crags (though inexplicably popular).It is effectively like trying to climb a giant, typically moist pile of limestoneish Jenga bricks. It gave me the heeby jeebies the first time I saw it and they have never left. I tend to go once a year to remind myself how much I dislike it. Despite the less than flattering description the routes are generally good, and longer and steeper than average for the moors.
Given the weather it was a good option. I've been wanting to do a girdle traverse for a while (though not at Peak Scare) and such old school tomfoolery would be a laugh as a group.
Another Andy joined us just as we were heading down the mud slope to the crag. We decided to go as a 4 on 2 ropes (in hindsight would of been safer to climb as 2 pairs).

Mmm lovely

We scrambled up to the starter ledge, Ben tried to climb the trickyish step to the next ledge before common sense took hold of him. Andy had first lead and made steady progress up the step before traversing rightwards to belay on the classic severe Jordu.
I foolishly volunteered to have the next pitch which traverses underneath the massive and slowly departing block above the now tree deprived Ornithology.

I mostly arse shuffled along until I came to an impase as I had shuffled too far using the lower break for hands and couldn't summon the bottle to reach the upper ledge from my position. After a bit of indecision I retreated back to the belay and passed the reigns onto choss supremo Ben who merrily shot off quite strenuously hand traversing the epicly loose block until a tricky move down to the lower break which is followed with interest to the belay. Certainly harder than the given grade of hard severe.

Ben in his element

This pitch had serious feel with spaced gear especially with 2 people on 1 rope increasing the potential consequence of any fall.

The toughest pitch of the day

Fortunately we all made it the belay safely. And once again Andy forlornly offered his sausage around but no one had a nibble.

Unpopular sausage

Andy had the next lead, It started with a fun juggy step across a gap before he disappeared round a corner. The route description became a bit vague and we heard various mutterings about wet rock and a lot of tooing and froing. Eventually a belay was found just round the corner and was again Ben was to the fore whilst me and Andy stayed on the other belay.
After some quality posing

Loon!

Ben skipped up what proved to be a very wet rising traverse. Andy soon followed on one rope before me and Andy followed on the other rope. Andy had some very understandable trouble committing to pulling on a sopping wet hold. As is often the case it went fine when he committed to the move and with Andy moving ahead of me and being on the same rope I had not the time to faff about which I would of done given the chance. Fortunately I found useful underclings in the lower break allowing me to get my feet up and be less reliant on the soppy hold. The rest of the pitch was easier but still required care.

With all of us reunited on the same belay we discussed wether to continue traversing or escape. We all were enjoying our wee adventure but only Ben tried to encourage us to continue going sideways. A 3:1 vote to gaining terra firma was the result.
More ledge shuffling before a mostly dry juggy finish followed with some excitement as not one but two owls flew out of a cave after Ben had climbed past (I love owls).
We all reached the top and treated ourselves to a lovely ale at the lovely pub. An excellent little adventure and best of all that's my Peak Scar trip for the year done!

A Owls!

Andy escaping the traverse

Terra Firma!

Spring has Spranged with Shingles

The days have been getting longer so my climbing thoughts move away from snow and ice to my preferred rock. My winter season was a short one but fulfilling. A snowy walk in the Lakes another in Wales with a bit of scrambling up Pen Ole Wen in ok weather. Plus 2 weekends in Scotland with 3 out of 4 perfect blue sky days is an acceptable return for me.
Winter action is still to be had but I want rock. From the end of February I've managed a couple of post work bouldering sessions at Almscliff getting no further on long standing projects after a winter 'training' on the plastic. One winter I'll train properly and get stronger.

It feels important to me have a good start to the Trad season, not scare yourself silly too early. Last year felt a late and slow start. My first route of the season involved my first ever rescue as I was unwilling to attempt the increasingly sodden mud slope finish of a HS at Smugglers Terrace. Rain, Dodgy rock and gear below resulted in requesting and receiving a helpful rope from above.

This year ill health has thrown a shingle in the works. After a weekend in Wales I developed a rash and unwelcome pain in my back. I was a proper brave soldier about it but as the rash spread a look on the NHS site resulted in a diagnosis of shingles. I only climbed on Monday and Thursday during the week. A visit to the walk in centre confirmed this. My shingles was the highest the nurse had ever seen! It effects a small band of the nervous system (for me T4). If I'd gone earlier some anti virals could of helped nothing to do now but suck it up and wait for it to disappear in 2-4 weeks.

The weekends weather was good but combination of Shingles, and other life duties resulted in no climbing but lots of sofa sprawling and rugby watching so not a bad weekend. Was distressing looking at sunny pictures of climbing popping up on my news feed (but not as distressing as Wales first half performance against England) but rest was needed and enjoyed.

I escaped on to rock Monday enjoying a light solo session at sunny Scugdale. The following weekend the forecast was a bit dreary but should be dry. Day trips both days were the plan, Saturday we tried Corby's crag in Northumberland as I was keen to go somewhere I'd hadn't been to before. The Rockfax guidebook intimated it was a year round crag with limited seepage. As soon as we walked down to the crag it was immediately obvious this was lies (the UKC logbook description describes it as a summer crag).
The views though claggy were lovely as the book suggested including a ruined castle.

The rock varied from sopping wet to mostly dry and always sandy. Took me a while to select a suitable route to warm up on. The start to the classic severe Plonka was unfortunately wet so plumped for nearby HS called Overunder which follows a groove line to a small bulge. The start looked tricky and the finish a juggy romp. The opposite was true. Plenty of little edges might the start steady but the rounded moist and sandy flake made the moves around the bulge tricky. Well protected and ok route but I was huffing and puffing more than I expect for a route of its grade due to conditions. Exactly not what I want at the start of the trad season.

Overunder is flake line to right of wide crack

I brought my lovely partner up, group psyche was low so one more token route the excessively sandy Mr Jones and home in time to watch 2/3rds of the days excellent 6 Nations action.

Sunday dawned bright and sunny and optimism of a warm day on the crag ensued. A lazy start and evening commitments meant a local mission was required. We arranged to meet up a few other Cleveland MC members at the trusty Wainstones.
It rained on and off on driving to Clay Bank which was dispiriting but we kept going. It didn't rain on the 30mins walk in and we bumped into Mike on the way. Brian and Jonny were already climbing damp looking rock when we arrived. With mixed feelings I racked up and led a route I always solo. It was pretty moist and unpleasant but the token 1 route was in the bag which looked like might be all the day had to offer. Fortunately it brightened up a bit and the rock dried. We even had almost 5 minutes of sunshine at one point. Nothing new to me was climbed but was good to placing gear again and enjoying a bit of banter with mates. Brian was most disappointed at Nik dispatching the tricky crux of Christopher with ease. His lack of height excuse no longer valid.

Mike on the Indian Face of Wainstones

My trad season has begun, not spectacularly but safely and have much better weather and conditions to hopefully look forward to.

Desolation of Smaug

From the Archives, climbed in May 2015

The Desolation of Smaug!

The spring bank holiday loomed and with my both  good buddy Jurgen and the Swaledale outdoor club heading to N Wales it was the obvious place to go. And for a change instead of the comfy confines of my van I joined the SOC in the salubrious surroundings of the Lincoln MC hut in Deinolen.
A few texts with Jurgen confirmed plan A of heading into Twll Mawr (the big hole) and trying to escape via The Desolation of Smaug! one of the new breed of multi pitch sport routes born of the hard work of Ian Lloyd Jones and others.
After feverish anticipation Saturday morning arrived and a prompt meeting at the Bus stop parking for 9am. A short gear faff ensued just a pile of quick draws and a pair of ropes were packed. Jurgen had researched the best way into Twll Mawr and we soon found Golgotha (the place of the skull!) and entered its mouth.

TheSkull

The tunnel led us into the big hole, after spying out landmarks we found the start of our route and made our way over the unstable scree to start racking up. The fairly straightforward approach was almost a dissappointment. The humming from the power station added to the trepidation but not as much as the wet looking first pitch (6b+).

The Wall

The first pitch fell to Jurgen and more unfriendly warm up is hard to imagine. A wet, off balance groove type thing was despatched with little rest/fall at the crux. A fine effort by Jurgen. I only made it by grabbing a quick draw which didn't fill me with confidence for the next 6c pitch many believe to be the crux. The dripping start didn't add to confidence and there is a nice pillar to hit if you fluff the start.
I didn't fluff the start and soon hit some dry rock and started to remember how to move on slate. The first half of the pitch is fairly straightforward but from a tricky step left the difficulty steps up and doesn't really relent until the belay, a cracking slabby pitch.

The next pitch also weighs in at 6c. It starts off on a pleasant arete before hitting an awkward groove with a very thin crux which spat me off first go. Still not sure how I did it.  There's barely an incut hold on the whole pitch which is unusual for the medium of slate and disconcerting given its paucity of friction.

The next pitch is is the easiest on the route at a mere 6a+ though with a strenuous start. A few huffs and puffs and it soon eases into a fun rib type feature.

The scale of the route started to become apparent as we had now ascended above the Watford Gap (the main path into the quarries) and we still had 2 pitches to go. I also started to feel confident we would make it to the top. Jurgen had the next pitch, another 6c. It was a really innocuous looking groove but proved to be anything but. Another sterling effort by Jurgen and I also climbed it clean via a completely different method incorporating some weird layaway off nothing to nothing.
The final 6b pitch fell to me (the description warns of a sting in the tail). A different style of climbing again with a layback cracked groove which was short but sweet(pumpy) before the final gratuitous headwall(you could walk off to the left). I did try the wall direct numerous times but with tired arms, a block to hit and out of sight of belayer I forced an easier way up left as direct was desperate. Having reached the belay and looked at the final slopey mantle I would of had to contend with I feel the left variant was a prudent call.
Jurgen followed the same line to the top and the 3rd longest sport route in the UK was in the bag. Well done us. Ascent took about 4 hours so was time to keep cranking but not the will to crank. A leisurely walk down taking in the sights of Lost World, Mordor and nutty high liners before we treated ourself to an ice cream in Llanberis.

|Spot the high liners